Barber shears look similar at a glance, but the blade profile decides how they behave in your hand. Match the edge to the technique and you will cut faster, cleaner, and with less strain.
Core Blade Profiles
Convex Edge (Japanese)
- Feel: Silent, low-resistance stroke built for fades, slide cutting, and beard architecture.
- Best for: Detail-driven barbers and anyone filming transformations.
- Care: Needs specialist sharpening. A grinder who removes the hollow will destroy the edge—oil daily to protect the hone line.
Beveled / Micro-Serrated Edge (German)
- Feel: Audible feedback with controlled grip on coarse regrowth.
- Best for: High-volume scissor-over-comb, apprentices, traditional shops.
- Care: More forgiving if dropped. Micro-serrated blades should never be slide cut and must be serviced by techs who can preserve the teeth.
Sword / Power Blades
- Design: Raised spine shifts force to the tip so long blades stay rigid.
- Best for: 7-7.5” shears powering through tapers, flat tops, and heavy density.
- Care: Keep tension dialled. Loose pivots chew themselves out quickly with the added mass.
Hybrid / K-Blades
- Design: Slim convex cutting edge with a slightly flatter back (including Korean-style K ridges).
- Best for: Teams sharing shears or barbers who want smooth strokes with a hint of grip.
- Care: Easier to maintain than pure convex but still deserves pro sharpening.
Texturiser Teeth
- 28-32 tooth blenders - Remove 35-40%. Perfect for blending clipper lines and softening curls.
- 14-18 tooth chunkers - Remove 20-25%. Use for debulking thick crowns or shaping big beards (always work off the ends).
- 40+ micro-tooth finishers - Remove 10-15%. Add airy movement to longer tops and modern mullets.
Blade Width & Radius
- Narrow blades (5.5-6”) pivot quickly for point cutting and detail edging.
- Wide blades (6.5-7.5”) carry momentum for over-comb passes and stay straighter over the comb.
- Radius - Tight radius (60-70 cm) favours slicing; broader radius (90-100 cm) holds hair for blunt work.
Match Blade to Technique
| Technique | Recommended Blade | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Scissor-over-comb tapers | 7” sword or beveled with micro-serration | Stays rigid and grips regrowth |
| Fade detailing & beard design | 5.5”-6” convex | Soft stroke, no push, cleaner finish for photos |
| Dry texture creation | Hybrid or narrow convex | Controlled slide without shredding ends |
| Training new barbers | Beveled or hybrid | Forgives heavy hands and cheaper to service |
Maintenance Playbook
- Daily - Wipe, disinfect, and oil. Humidity in Aussie shops will rust any neglected edge.
- Weekly - Warm water + pH-neutral clean, tension test, inspect tips under bright light.
- Sharpening - Convex every 3-4 months in metro shops, beveled every 5-6 months. Ship in padded cases with notes on preferred tension.
Takeaways
- Blade design dictates behaviour—pick an edge that matches the services you sell most.
- Never slide cut with micro-serrated blades or you will shred cuticles and blunt the teeth.
- Protect the hone line with consistent maintenance and certified sharpening.
Know what is in your hand and you will know exactly how it treats your client’s hair.